Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art ★★★★ Victoria & Albert Museum | Mar 28 - Nov 8, 2026


“That Italian artist who makes clothes.” Attributed to Coco Chanel, this remark about Elsa Schiaparelli neatly captures the contrast between the two women’s approaches to couture. Chanel is synonymous with elegant simplicity, whereas Schiaparelli’s work immediately brings to mind terms such as “theatrical”, “shocking” and “eccentric”. Born in 1890, she brought a bold, provocative edge to fashion that was utterly distinctive. This remarkably comprehensive exhibition charts her rise from the practical, understated Pour le Sport range, through the chic and functional Pour le Ville, to the gloriously extravagant and dramatic Pour le Soir. It shows how she was shaped by the artistic movements of her time, particularly Dada, and how she in turn influenced them. Highlights include the Jean Cocteau-inspired coat and Salvador Dalí’s lobster dress, alongside Picasso’s painting of Nusch Éluard in a Schiaparelli outfit. The exhibition also explores her work in film and her costume design for actresses as varied as Mae West and Marlene Dietrich. Elsewhere, emphasis is placed on the designer’s attention to detail and flair for finishing touches and accessories, from buttons and zips to belts and bags. Schiaparelli was an assiduous brand builder, venturing into all aspects of fashion, including fragrance. Although she closed her couture salon in 1954, it reopened in 2012, and Daniel Roseberry was appointed creative director in 2019 with the aim of carrying forward her legacy. Throughout the exhibition, his creations are interspersed with the historical garments, linking the past and present of Maison Schiaparelli with striking effect. This is an exceptional show, whether your interest lies in fashion history, the cultural life of the early twentieth century, or the contemporary obsession with self-promotion and celebrity culture. As Schiaparelli herself observed: “Nobody has been able to pronounce my [name] properly ... but everybody knows what it means.”

Rated: ★★★★

Reviewed by J.C.
Image: Lobster Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, designed in collaboration with Salvador Dalí. Paris, Summer 1937. Silk organza © 2025 Salvador Dalí, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, DACS. Photo Philadelphia Museum of Art Gift of Mme Elsa Schiaparelli

When, Where, Getting there:
Map & Location: Cromwell Rd, London SW7 2RL, UK

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