Memsaab's Tasting Menu ★★★★ Colonel Saab | From October 2022


It is difficult to believe that it is already the first anniversary of Colonel Saab, the Indian restaurant located in the former Holborn Town Hall. Roop Partap Choudhary's creation with its distinctive and artful decoration is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate and Roop has chosen to mark the present special occasion with a new tasting menu. With its usual inventive approach to Indian cuisine, Colonel Saab is offering a six course progressive meal which is paired with specially developed cocktails. A companion and I recently had the opportunity to share this dining experience designed by Chef Sohan Bhandari. We both started with a "Mall Road's Dahi Sev Puri" which as instructed we popped into our mouths whole. This was definitely a burst of flavour with which to begin the meal. Our second course was Chilli Mogo which proved to be a crispy cassava in a tangy, tamarind sauce. For myself, course three was the Anglo Indian Chicken Chop. My companion, who is a vegetarian, enjoyed the Kandhari Paneer Tikka. Both definitely met and surpassed our expectations in both taste and presentation. After a mango sorbet palate cleanser I relished the Sunday Lamb Curry in a rich savoury sauce and my tablemate had the Falahari Kofta Curry which he proclaimed delicious. To conclude we both enjoyed a satisfying but not overwhelming dessert. The Raspberry, Pistachio & Coconut Tart was absolutely delightful and my companion thoroughly enjoyed the Malpua Waffles and ice cream. Both provided a wonderfully refreshing cooling contrast to top off our courses. To drink, I tried one of the signature cocktails which was flavoured with mango and saffron and which was pleasantly tart. My companion sampled the very flavourful lassis and his favourite was the pistachio and coconut. The new tasting menu is a lovely addition to Colonel Saab's regular menu and offers a delightful way to sample the variety and imagination the restaurant is bringing to the local dining scene.

Rated: ★★★★

Reviewed by J.C.

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